Thursday, October 12, 2017

How I wall-mounted my TV for $20 -- with JUST a screwdriver and my hands.

Gone are the days you needed a $100 TV bracket and a stud finder and a professional to hang your TV on the wall.  I was doing research and found a high quality slim mount bracket for $12 with rave reviews on Amazon.  TWELVE DOLLARS.  What?!  So I thought... OK.  I'll need a stud finder and drill to mount this bracket to the studs--I've been through this whole ordeal years back when I mounted my 85-lb plasma.

Well, nope! Not anymore.  They make these new fasteners called Toggle-Bolts.  My friend who does home theater systems for a living recommended them and said they don't even need to go in studs these days since new TVs are so light.   The new 43" Sony 4K LED TV I just bought is light as a feather--hell the stock stand it comes with is made out of flimsy plastic and it holds the TV.  The TV is about 20 lbs but Toggle-Bolts says it can securely hold up to 80 lbs simply just using the drywall.

The best part of Toggle Bolts? You don't even need a drill.  You use your hands. It has a built in sharp edge that cuts through the drywall with a twist of your hand.  Just twist it back and forth and it makes a 1/2" hole in the drywall.  You insert the toggle bolt and pull it back firmly securing the anchor to the backside of the drywall.  You then push the plastic cap over the hole and twist the carcass of the toggle bolt off.  Voila.  Then you screw on the bracket.

Oh and onto the bracket I got.  It's made of strong steel--probably made in China but very secure and easy to mount.  Screw the supplied brackets onto the back of your TV using the assortment of fasteners and washers it comes with and you hang the TV on your newly installed bracket. Oh and this bracket comes with a bubble level.  They thought of everything.

After the anchor is pulled tight against the back of the drywall and the threaded receiver is flush against the wall facing you, you push the plastic cap into place and you are left with this.  Simply snap it off with your hands and you end up with what you see on the right. Two done. 

 See. You just use your hands to drive the toggle bolt through the wall.

Install tips:

Toggle bolts: use an LED flashlight to ensure the threaded screw receiver is facing you directly flush against the back of the drywall. So you can easily thread the screw. To know where to put the Toggle Bolts: stand or sit wherever and however you'll be using your TV and what I did was make sure the center of the bracket is eye-level with how you'll be watching your screen.  Use the supplied bubble level that sits on the bracket and use your screwdriver to twist little marks/holes in the drywall where you'll be installing your Toggle Bolts. Oh and don't forget these to hide your wires.

Bracket: self-explanatory, but the way it hooks on is you pull the cloth straps on the top hooks of the bracket on your TV as you hook the BOTTOM of the TV up against the bracket then the top hooks on, then you release the hooks. Easy.  So bottom then top, then RELEASE the cloth strap/hooks.

Use this resource as informational tool only. If your TV is big or heavy, you should use a stud finder and mount to studs for maximum security.  Only use this method if you feel your TV is light enough.  Always work safe and use safety goggles. 

I thank you for reading my site and using my links.  I earn a few pennies every time you use them and I truly enjoy making reviews of products I actually buy, enjoy, and use.

Wednesday, September 6, 2017

Top 10 E46 Modifications that should be Outlawed!

Top 10 E46 Modifications that should be outlawed!

Of course everyone can mod their E46 how they want, but in my opinion these mods are either poor taste, illegal, dangerous and serve no purpose other than to bro-brag, make noise, cause problems with the law, etc. Others are just really poor taste. I'm sure some are nice people who have these mods but still I stand by my opinion! I would outlaw these mods as they usually take more away then they add! And there's little to no value in them.

1) Loud Pipes and Intakez and Headerz

E46s from the factory have classy, carefully tuned exhausts that make quite a bit of aggressive noise from the factory.  The fact that they make noise, particularly on 330s, means they're not very restrictive.  Unless you drive a dedicated track car, aftermarket exhaust on your E46 non-M doesn't do much for your E46 other than make it loud, obnoxious and improve your 1/4 mile times from 15.5s to 15.458s.  Is that half of a tenth of a second worth it for the $800 for the part (not including install) and $1000 in tickets you'll get? Besides, the stock stuff looks way classier anyway (than a shiny wavy mirrored Wugnaflo) and gives the car a refined appearance--no wonder why BMW chose it!  If your car is dedicated track beast with supporting mods, then sure go for one. But for the street? Why bother. Remove the butterfly flapper on a 330i or get a ZHP muffler and bam. Instant high quality exhaust! And don't get me started on aftermarket intakes for the E46. Stock is the platinum standard.  Aftermarket fits poor, sounds poor, looks poor, and performs poor. This is a fact as premium members of E46Fanatics have confided in me personally. I've helped fanatics remove many aftermarket intakes.  

2) Tint Dark Tinted lights

You aren't batman. The whole point of a light is for light to illuminate so you can see stuff with your eyes.  You know, so you don't hit it.  Painting or tinting your lights is not only illegal and dangerous, but poor taste and lessens your visibility as well as others from seeing you.  For the same reason, lets do away with "stealth" or chrome-coated and blue-tinted bulbs.  Any time you apply paint, you block light. Period.  Yes you can compensate by upping the juice (by increasing the winds in the filament), but the result is increased heat, power consumption, and burnt lights.  Don't pay more to destroy your car.  Besides, amber looks great! Still question this? See California Vehicle Code § 26101-26104.  Don't live in California? Your state has similar laws.

3) Stancing/Stretching/Poking/Tucking

I wrote an article here on why it's bad.  But basically it's dangerous, looks poor, and drastically reduces performance. Don't do it. 

4) Grill stripes

We get it, the company that makes your car has an tough motorsports division and you want to show off the colors on your car like your favorite sports team.  But 1) your non-M is not an ///M and 2, even if it was, people already know it's an ///M because well, it's an ///M.    Besides, what good is your ///M heritage when a stock 2017 Civic turbo will shred your doors off.  The money is better spent on a new set of wheel bolts.  And while we're at it, don't paint your grill surrounds. It just makes your grills look even tinier, like you are plugging your nose.  Lets also do away with the eyelids.  

5) Stickers

You can buy this stance sticker pack on eBay (source)

This one goes out to all you hard-parkers out there who show up at Ikea meets w/ sagged jeans, flat-billed caps, and dollar-store neon sunglasses.   Yes, the guys who plaster stickers representing crappy tuner brands going down the windshield usually tilted--because tilting gives you extra hardness.  It's a throwback to the 90s ricer area where the stickers were on the fenders straight. Now with stance, the stickers are tilted, and go down the windshield, often including a sticker describing the feeling after eating gas station sushi. Less is more, guys. Nobody's impressed that you threw on a bunch of crappy parts and are offering free advertising.

6) Racks with stickers or stancing

Found example photo on Google

Unused racks with wind deflectors that have stickers on it AND stance?  Get em outta here!  If you have a rack on a tasteful car, without stickers, and it happens to be between outings, fine.  But if your rack is the intended emphasis on your car drawing attention to it with stickers and you have pics of your car w/ a rack on your favorite forum, it should be outlawed.  Looks poor, gives poor mileage, and is a poor visual accessory.  Get a rack to use it to do fun stuff. Nothing more. 

7) Generic or aftermarket low dust brake pads, drilled rotors. Bro brakes!

The stock pads are good enough for 98% of people and drilled rotors are definitely a no go.  BMW Performance are OK in a pinch, but for car shows only.  I wouldn't outlaw them. But bubble-bones low dust, and other aftermarket bro-pads, I would steer clear of as they often cost more and do less than stock. See my full brake write-up here. 

8) Aftermarket body kits, aftermarket wide body

These look poor, especially those by RC Hintzelheimer. Just cause it sounds German doesn't mean it's good.  All it does is make it look like a low quality euro tuner car.  Today, premium for BMW body stuff is stock sport such as MTECH or ///M. Stay away from the gaudy, the wavy stuff, the poor fitting stuff. It's noticeable from a mile away and makes the car difficult to sell because the body is all hacked up.  Hope you plan to own it for life!

9) Cheap/generic HID/Blue bulbs

Poor taste, illegal, poor performing.  Don't do it. 

10)  Wraps

Bad stuff.  Your $300-$3000 is much better spent on new tires and brakes or another safety item.  

Tuesday, September 5, 2017

Go Pro Hero 5 Session Review - The Best Just Got Better

GoPro Hero 5 Session
The Sequel to The Best Action Cam
Photo courtesy of

4k @ 30 FPS
1080p @ 60 FPS
 10MP Photo and Video Timelapse
Waterproof without Housing up to 33' (up from 30')
Superior USB-C

UNDER CONSTRUCTION -- NEW REVIEW COMING SOON -- For now, See the Old Review of the Session 4 Here!

In the mean time, check out the old go pro 4 hero session. In a nutshell, my preliminary testing shows this new gopro has all the same goodness of the old one, but with superior USB-C, 4k, and better internals for faster boot time and processing.  Much reduced delay!  Buy this new one and sell your old one for $100 and this new one is a no-brainer.

Size and Color

The GoPro Hero 4 Session is without a doubt the lightest and smallest GoPro on the market.  It is absolutely rugged and waterproof without that silly bulky housing you're accustomed to seeing other GoPros in.  This adds a degree of stealth that the larger GoPro Hero 4 Black can't match with its larger size, weight, and even increased dimensions with its waterproof housing it needs.  The GoPro Hero 4 Session weighs in at 74g -- roughly half the weight of the GoPro Hero 4 Black and Silver Editions.  

Another awesome stealth factor is the camera is black.  It doesn't shout "STEAL ME!" as your typical GoPro might.  You can take this bad boy anywhere and nobody would notice.  You can go extra stealth by covering the top LCD screen in a small patch of gaffer's tape (or electrical tape) and disable the red recording LED in front through the settings via the GoPro App on your smart phone.  Lots of customizability here with the app.  This GoPro has virtually all the functionality its bigger more expensive brothers have but in a smaller package.  


The GoPro Hero 4 Session is waterproof up to 30' without a housing.  I took this GoPro Snorkeling in Thailand and Indonesia and it never skipped a beat.  Simply press the big record button on top and it starts recording.  Hold it down for 3 seconds and it starts taking a timelapse at customizable intervals. Awesome! And the GoPro Editing Software it comes with stitches it all together automatically--voila!  No need for a stinkin' bulky waterproof case!  If you do take it snorkeling or in the ocean, I highly recommend one of those GoPro Flotation Stick things or your GoPro will end up at the bottom of the ocean. 

USB Charging

The GoPro Hero 4 Session charges via Micro USB.  This means no need to carry around a bulky block charger.  And since there's no LCD screen showing a live image when recording, the battery can last long.  I was able to use my GoPro a full day in Thailand taking videos, timelapses, and photos of course being careful to turn it off when not using it (which it automatically senses and does perfectly) Just be careful of accidental presses.  Which is hard because the buttons are pretty meaty and take some deliberate effort to press.  I carried around a portable USB charging battery pack if I ever needed to charge on the fly.  Perfect!


The GoPro Hero 4 Session is low profile and in my opinion is much better than your typical GoPro for mounting on a tripod mount suction cup on your car.  Smaller footprint means less drag and also means more stealthy for a low profile appearance.  Much harder to notice a tiny black cube on a single cup suction mount than a large gray rectangle in a waterproof case.  You can also rotate the GoPro Hero 4 Session in its supplied case and the camera will recognize this and record the correct way--all automatically!  It has dual mics for wind noise cancellation.  

Sample Photo:

Chiang Mai, Thailand.  Took this photo very discreetly using my GoPro Hero 4 Session

Sample Videos:

(Cool suspension video)

Biking around Santa Monica

Video driving around (note this recorded  in lower res--oops) 

At half the cost of the larger GoPro Hero 4 Black and GoPro Hero 4 Silver, I think the GoPro Hero 4 Session is a no-brainer @ $199.  

Why you might want The GoPro Hero 4 Black over the GoPro Hero 4 Session?  Very slight edge in image quality when viewing at full res, water resistant at greater depths (130'+), ability to swap batteries, and built in LCD for composing shots.  Also more rugged with the waterproof case attached.  If you break the session's clear glass (though tough) lens cover, you have to replace it whereas with the larger GoPro, you replace the case. So yeah, it's tougher and can go in deeper water. If you're hardcore, go big. 

Recommended accessories:

GoPro tripod mount -- you'll need this if you want to mount your GoPro on a Tripod or Gorilla Pod or anything using a traditional tripod screw mount.  Get it. It's cheap.

GoPro selfie stick -- I don't use this, but you might want to for your family vacation

GoPro helmet mount -- for you bikers out there

GoPro suction cup mount -- for you car enthusiast/track day junkies.  

I hope you enjoyed my review of the GoPro Hero 4 Session. My review of the GoPro Hero 5 Session is coming soon! I appreciate you guys using my links per above--it helps me earn a tiny percentage when you guys make purchases.  Appreciate it!

For inquiries:

Wednesday, August 30, 2017

Top 10 BMW E46 Misconceptions

Top 10 E46 Misconceptions  

1) CCV will stop your oil consumption, bro.  

No it won't.  Unless your car is billowing clouds of smoke out the back when you start it up, that quart of oil you're using every 500 miles is not being caused by your CCV.  BMW engines are notorious for burning oil, even brand new from the factory. My 2006 did.  And even new ones today!  BMW says 1 quart every 1000 miles is acceptable. Porsche says it too.  Obviously, it's not acceptable to most of us, but just realize an engine that many times burned oil when new will no doubt be tired 12 years+, 100k+ miles later.  Your options are this: keep adding oil or rebuild the engine with new piston rings and valve stem seals. Or get a new car.  

2) Put "anneeseeze" (anti-seize) on your spark plug threads, bro.  

No.  Don't.  As Jason Statham once said, "Whatever you're thinking--unthink it. Not only does the manufacturer of the OEM spark plugs say not to, most manufacturers of most modern plugs (ones that would apply to the E46 anyway) say not to.  Your torque will be way off due to the junk you've just brushed onto the threads and now you've just muckered up any solid connection. Besides the plugs come with factory's own special recipe of anti-size on the threads--just not in auto parts store paste form.    

3) Put anneeseeze on your hub faces, bro!  

No.  Don't do it, Elmer. This can result in extreme injury or death.  Here's why:    So... Elmer.  Look.  Your wheels are held on to your car by clamping force at the wheel-to-hub interface as a result of your properly torqued fasteners.  Not your luggo nuts, your lug nuts, your lug bolts, your wheel bolts or your hub-centric ring/lip.  So by slippering up your  hub/wheel interface with anti-seize, you're preventing the wheel from reaching proper and  consistent clamp force.  The surfaces need to bite into eachother and clamp down hard and you can't do that properly when you've lubed it up. This is why you should also super-clean/grind down that interface as to 1)achieve superior clamping surfaces and 2) to prevent debris from crushing, effectively reducing clamping force as time progresses.So yeah don't lube up your hub faces-- You better hope your fasteners can take the extra load when your wheel is fidgeting around. ONLY use anti-seize on the hub lip to prevent sticking later but--NOWHERE else in or around the wheel. And CERTAINLY not on the bolts.  

4) My Kukebono pads dust less and brake just as good as stock!  

Nope. They don't.  There are no free rides when it comes to brakes. If you dust less, your performance suffers.  Go ahead and use them to get less dust, but don't expect them to perform just as well as stock--especially cold bite/feel.  That full sized Ford Expedition unexpectedly pulls out of the driveway while you're barreling down the road first thing in the morning should make you think twice before not going with stock. Some of those low-dust alternative pads are shown to increase your stopping distance anywhere from 8 to 20 ft.    Go OEM. 

5) ZHP or M3, bro? Can't decide? I need ZHP cuz has special rack and ZHP has unique suspension/control arm geometry.  

No you didn't and no it doesn't and no you don't. And no it doesn't.  And stop calling me bro, bro.  I've pummeled this rack topic years back and secured internal BMW docs supporting my research.  I posted those docs online and I alone can solve this rack mystery! And have, bigly!  Anyway long story short, you don't have a ZHP rack.  You have a 4/01+ 330 rack, which just so happens to be installed on the ZHP. Your ZHP's rack is not unique to the ZHP is what I'm saying.  Great rack, though. No denying.  My 02 330 had the same 'ZHP" yellow tag rack before the ZHP even existed.  And a huge no to special geometry on the control arms as someone once tried to claim.  I, along with someone else, smashed that theory some years ago, including in the thread w/ someone who did measurements. Your ZHP has cool trim/diff and other options, but it's primarily, today, a looks better package. That extra 10hp and more aggressive diff should account for the heavier, larger (better looking) wheel and tire combo.  Assuming that 10 hp isn't not 8hp over the years.  Definitely get a ZHP if you can find one in good condition, superb looking cars especially in convertible form, but don't think at all that it's in a similar category as M3 or some other upper echelon sports car category. It's a 330 with a body kit at 10 hp.  Whatever E46 you get will have a suspension that ends up in the trash anyway and a 3.38 diff from a 330 auto is just $100 and a craigslist ad away.  

6) Change your guibo (steering coupler) if your steering wheel shakes when braking!  

No, ding dong! That has nothing to do with steering wheel vibrations.  You should always change your coupler so you have new stuff and for maximum road feel/feedback/performance but the coupler has nothing to do with vibration or brake shakes. A new coupler would only make vibration worse as the rubber would be firmer.  A typically worn coupler will not cause added vibration.  It will simply dull response time from when the driver turns the wheel and when the front wheels actually turn.  A worn coupler causes and adds to sloppy handling but does not in itself cause vibrations.  If your wheel shakes when brakes, I wrote a whole 'nother article for that.  

7) You don't need no euro or BMW oil--your car will be fine if you use regular ol' oil.

Short answer is this: BMW requires euro-spec oil for use in its gasoline engines.  It meets BMW's standards for sheer/temp stability, wear, solubility, etc. under high loads, under extreme conditions, for extended periods of time--think autobahn.  By definition (not opinion) these oils are superior to non-spec oils.  And they cost the same or cheaper than your granpappy oil.  So why not.  Especially important for enthusiast driven cars who tend to rev longer, harder.   

8) I blacked to backed all my trim to make it look new again. 

You're adding liquid/oil/paste/cream to your trim so inherently it will become darker just due to physics.  But all you're doing is adding stuff.  And once that oil dries out or gets washed away, your faded old trim will just reappear again. So you'll spend $20 a month on cream for your trim to make it appear black for a week. You need to remove stuff, haze, oxidation, contaminants, etc. And the way you do that is through abrasive sponge such as Magic Eraser. You (gently) sand it away using this sponge. You just soak the magic eraser in water and scrub plastic trim away--never scrub painted surfaces as it can scratch.  Make sure you tape adjacent painted areas before using the sponge! Remove the top layer of filth on anything black and plastic and maintain with water after that.  This usually goes for your body/bumper trim, black areas around the mirrors, etc. No need to smear grease over your car to give you the impression you've just corrected your trim.   You can just reach in your pantry and use vegetable oil for that!

9) You has to use special tool to align RTAB! 

If you happen to have the tool, use it. But not necessary to stress over this and spend $300.  Simply install the RTAB bracket the same way it came out--use a pen to mark the angle.  For me, the bushing bracket has always been naturally lined up with a cast line in the trailing arm. Perhaps BMW did this on purpose.   

10) You need PPI before getting E46!  

No you don't, bucko.  If you are already a fanatic, know a thing or two about cars, you may be able to skip that PPI and save you $300.   All a PPI on an E46 is going to do is tell you things I could've told you about your E46 to begin with.  It's going to need a new suspension, a new cooling system, etc.  Other things like brakes, leaks, you can see with your eyes. You have eyes, don't you?  All these things needing replacement should be assumed with a new-to-you 13 year old E46. What else would you expect? The most useful thing on a PPI can, perhaps, be a compression and leak-down test.  However, there are other ways to tell if your car has compression--like driving it.  See further. (Your results may vary.)    

The Mango Method
The alternative way to PPI
The Patriot as seen in the Santa Monica Mountain Range

1) Know who you're buying from
In the transporter, the quote goes "the way a man cares for his car is the way he cares for himself." Are they dirty in appearance? Stained clothes, bad odors, ketchup-covered shoes, etc. Talk to the owner too. Ask about the car's history.  How does he carry his/herself?  Do they talk with a lot of slang? Are you referred to as "Dawg" or "Homie"? Does the car smell like drugs? If so, run.  That's all fine for a used XBOX or something, but not a used BMW. Turn on the radio and see what music they were listening to also works. That in and of itself is not a true factor but combined w/ the smell of drugs or stack of unpaid parking tickets, it may be.  Point is buy from someone who has something to lose. Someone responsible. Also look out for horrible mods with poor taste. Intakez and the likes. Pass the test? Proceed to step 2.  

2) Drive the car. Long. Hot. Hard. With A/C on
Does the car pull strong? Superb. You've typically ruled out any compression problems.  Use the OBC trick to monitor coolant temps (google search how to access this). Has the temps stayed between 96-99c during your extended hot test drive? No overheating? Superb.  You can rule out any present cooling leaks/HG problems. Ask if the car has ever overheated.  If no, ask what cooling service (request specifics) has been done.  Ensure no check engine lights. Passes these tests? Proceed to step 3.  

3) Pop the hood. Look around with a flashlight  
Ensure no coolant stains, excessive oil stains (it's an E46, there's likely to be SOME oil stains).  Look to see everything is in the right place.  Reference my engine bay pictures and compare.  Anything missing or out of place? This may be reflected in the practices of whoever touched the car.  Is the car dirty but engine bay super clean? He could be trying to cover something up.  Also check all fluids and look for signs of abuse.  The coolant should be CLEAR blue or close to it. The oil is fine, if dirty, but ask the owner about specifics of the oil he used and how often changed. It should be BMW oil or an approved euro-spec oil.   I use this beast of a LED flashlight.  I do mean beast. 

4) Walk around the car. Look at the exterior
Are their excessive/abnormal amount of door dings? Not only can this indicate an irresponsible owner, but consider this as an added repair cost once you buy the car. Use it to negotiate a price.  Also look at the paint and clear coat, signs of prior repair.  Panels should have some orange peel to it from the factory.  Look for signs of repair such as tape lines, mismatched colors, smooth glassy paint next to a panel with orange peel factory paint.  Repairs in and of itself are of little concern as long as done correctly per BMW, but it could reveal a bigger problem or a lying seller. Look at the interior, too.  To me, a sign of abuse is an overly shredded/ripped apart worn driver's bolster.  A true E46 fanatic gets in and out of their E46 carefully and respectfully.  If they do that, you bet they treated the rest of the car that way.  

5) Records check
Do your diligence.  Ask a dealer nicely for a record history based on the vin.  Run a car fox or equivalent.  Google the vin # and look for anything.


The above has been my personal way of looking at potential cars to buy and it's never disappointed me.   Your results may vary and I recommend doing what you feel is best for you. However it is my opinion that PPIs aren't a good use of money so long as the car looks good, drives good, doesn't overheat after a long drive, and accelerates strongly with no check engine lights or other glaring open and obvious problems.  Most of us fanatics here are more knowledgeable on these cars than your average mechanic and already know what to expect based on the massive knowledgebase established for over a decade.  Be savvy, be informed, be safe!

Happy motoring,

Tuesday, August 8, 2017

Why Stancing is a Poor Lifestyle Choice - Project E90 335i Part 1

Stancejerks. No Bueno.
"Play stupid games, win stupid prizes."
Dangerous, Poor Taste, Inconsiderate, Abusive, Expensive
Why stancing is a lifestyle that has to go and what you can do about it.

E90 335i with 19x10 wheels and spacers in the front. Rub City =(
All of my photography Done with a Canon EOS M3 and Canon EF-M 22mm F2 lens

I've got a new project on my hands.  Project E90 335i.  This is part 1 of the series.  I came upon this car that had many, many problems. The most glaring is it came with Avante Garde M359 19x10 wheels in the front with undersized tires AND spacers with STOCK lug bolts. It has 19x10s in the rear too but they fit fine. I remedied these by purchasing new AG M359 wheels in correct 19x9 ET35 and 235/35/19 tires.  I think I could've gone 245 or even 255 but I wanted to avoid the risk of rubbing as it's still a tighter fit than I'd like. It's not my money so I wanted to go the safer route.  I purchased Hankook V12 Evo 2 Tires.  These wheels were barely holding on by 3 or 4 threads of the wheel bolt due to using spacers with stock bolts.  WOW.   You know the saying birds of a feather flock together?  Well this stancebird had with it many maintenance and upgrade no-nos, it doesn't surprise me that someone with enough disregard to safety to use stock BMW wheel bolts would install spacers just to get that aggressive look.  Now I use the term stancing here loosely for this particular case. This isn't the typical stance-slam, but it's a variation of it.  Pushed out wheels to the limits, forcing on thin small tires to clear the fenders etc.  Thankfully this car wasn't slammed.

Stancing is a modern-day phenomenon which has its roots to the 80s low-rider era in Southern California where gangsters up and down the state from LA to the Bay Area would slam their impalas and put the widest wheels possible with the most stretch possible as to allow fender clearance due to their oversized wheels.  At least in those days, these gangsters cared about their Impalas as their prized possessions.  Immaculate car art, paintwork, body work, interiors.  They had pride. 

Pic I found on Google

Today? Well stancing has taken a hold of import Japanese and European cars.  

Pic I found on google by searching for stancing

What's wrong with stancing?

You can't go anywhere, Elmer.  The whole point of a car is to GO places.  Stancing means you use larger than intended wheels and driving around 5mph and a half mile an hour over speed bumps and dips causing delays in traffic.  Using large wheels means you can't fit the proper size tire.  So what do you do? You use a smaller tire!  What this does is puts additional stresses on an already-sensitive low-profile wheel/tire combination.  

The following are symptoms of stancing:

Body Damage

This E90 came to me with popped and twisted fenders from the wheels striking the fender over bumps.  The front bumper popped out and was sagging and hanging.  I carefully molded the steel fender tab/mount back to shape and used a zip-tie (temporarily) to secure the bumper.  Thanks to stancing, Elmer screwed up a once $45,000 luxury car and nearly turned it into a rolling trash heap. Stop it, Elmer!  Also people who stance their cars often jerk their fenders off with rollers so they can fit their oversized Pepboy wheels and generic tires--this results in paint cracking, waviness, unevenness, and general poor taste rusted out beat up body work.  Good luck if you ever plan to sell your car.


So you purchase the Ultimate Driving Machine or (your brand equivalent sporty car) and then stance it? Why?  That's like buying an expensive camera then rubbing peanut butter on the front of the lens.  How does stancing ruin handling? Well first of all, stancing means oversized wheels resulting in heavier wheels and then...typically doubly HEAVIER than that due to being generic wheels.  You just got double heavied.  This does wonders for response and agility.  And not the good kind!  Then you have lowered contact patch due to the tires being undersized both in width AND diameter AND being tilted w/ negative camber due to the ALIGNMENT that's required to clear the fenders.  So you have a THIN, NARROW, and TILTED and sometimes GENERIC tire rolling down the road at 80mph. 


By stancing, you are endangering yourself and others.  Your now crappy thin and small tires stretched on heavy wheels are not only severely reduced in traction and response, the additional load and stress on the tire means its extra VULNERABLE TO IMPACTS causing risk of BUBBLING and, TIRE SHREDDING BY RUBBING THE FENDER, AND EXTREME BLOWOUTS!  People also tend to install spacers without using the proper extended wheel bolts. By doing all the above and more, you've risked peoples safety and livelihoods all cause you wanted to sag your pants by hardparking at the next car meet.  Hardparking is when you try to look extra bad ass as all the dudes look at you as you park your slammer car next to other slammer cars. Also usually accompanied by cheap generic coilovers which presents its own set of problems.  Stop slamming, Elmer!

 Shredded tire due to fender rubbing.  The E90 fender has a knife edge void of factory paint due to rubbing.  The result is a shredded tire.  Stance your car? It's like taking a knife to your tires while hanging out the window at 90 mph. Like that prison execution knifing scene in Breaking Bad. Is that what you really want?

This was the "best" of the bubbles.  The other tire had 3 bubbles more severe than this. It was getting late and got lazy to take additional photos.  Just wanted to finish.   Your stancing and popping pushes the sidewall to the limit as it's now stretched beyond its intended function.  Making it even more vulnerable to sidewall separation and air leakage.  Imagine jabbing a properly sized tire with a butter knife.  Now stretch that same tire over a larger wheel and jab it again.  The tire is stretched and stressed beyond its intended limit while having to cope with road forces and impacts.  Yes this can happen to correctly sized tires or even new defective tires but stretching your tires isn't helping this. These conditions many times lead to bubbles that will eventually grow causing your tire to blow out at 90 mph on the highway potentially crossing the center divider risking an accident with a 35,000 lb loaded 18-wheel rig.  Are you a stancer? Check the inside of your tires NOW.  Bubbles are likely hiding where you can't see them.

There's already a dashcam video of a stanced Lexus circulating the internet where the car was doing nothing but going in a straight line and a slight bump sent it spinning out of control into oncoming traffic. This was due to the drastically reduced contact patch. Don't do it, Elmer. Safety first.  

Someone installed these 5x120 BMW H&R Spacers (Good stuff) but with stock wheel bolts.  Always use extended BMW wheel bolts with your BMW wheel spacers.

Poor Taste

Even if all the above wasn't an issue, it's just ugly.  You may as well pull your upper lip up and walk around showing your teeth. That or sagging your pants extremely low.  The whole point of a BMW is to perform.  Stancing goes against everything performance to compromise for perceived looks.  I have news for you Elmer, it looks like crap. 

Wow.  Look how far it's sticking out. That's causing unnecessary drag and turbulence increasing fuel consumption and robbing horsepower. Unlike you, your car cannot gain this power back with your Monster energy drinks.


Here's the after-shots with 19x9s in front with 235/35/19 tires and 19x10s in rear with 265/35/19 tires (I plan to install a fresh set of tires on those soon) I also removed the spacers.  Now the wheel bolts have enough thread engagement to be safe. This car has many more projects to complete.  I've fixed the cigarette lighter, the sagging bumper that popped due to the stance, and other misc. odds and ends.  This car will get the Mango touch!  Oh the BMS 335i cone filters are BLACK.  The headlights and sidemarkers are faded. Sadly, there is no lens (that I know of) offered for Xenon E90 pre-lci sedan.  Sigh.  

Professional Sport Look  

 Look, Ma! No more wheels sticking out with goofball sized tires!

E90 335i fixed with correct sized front wheels and new correct size tires. You see that inch or so of gap between the fender and the tire's edge? That's the professional look you want.  Anything more aggressive and it's obvious you're trying too hard to be aggressive and have deviated far from the factory setup.  Too much of anything is bad. This has a classy, high quality performance balanced look.  

I realize a lot of stancers like Elmer are really nice guys and I mean no disrespect to anyone but this is an issue that really bugs me especially when these actions really compromise safety. This car had so many safety issues due to oversizing the front wheels, it boggles my mind.  A lot of people blindly stance, slam, stretch their cars on oversized wheels, undersized tires, and cheap coilovers without thinking. This post hopefully will get people to think before they modify their cars and risk others.  Be safe!